Method of making shoes



METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICAHON FILED JULYI9,1918.

' Patented May 10, 1921:

R. w w W pairs-e stares earner entice.

KARL ENGEL, on ARLINGTON, iressiicirusn 'rs, ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED snon MACHINERY CORPORATION, er re'rnnson, new

OF NEW JERSEY.

JERSEY, A conronnrron 1 Mn'rnon OF'MAKiNG snons.

To aZZ whom it may concern:

f-Be it known that I, KARIJ ENGEL, a citizen of-th'e United States, residing at Arlington, in the county of h/lidd-leser; and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain improvements in Methods of Making Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings,

is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicatinglike parts in the several figures. v

This invention having outwardly directedfianges about the heel portions, for example, stitchdown shoes. It is to be understood, however, that in its broader aspects, theinvention is ap plicable to the manufacture of shoes of the stitchdown'or other types in whichthe flanges at the rear ends are inwardlydirected.

By a common method of making stitchdown shoes, an' upper is prepared with an 7 outwardlydirected flange and the flange *is secured to the-margin of a sole or inlast is then inserted to stretch and shape nersole before the insertion 'of a lasta the upper and the shoe is completed genen .ally by the attachment of an outsole to the outwardly extending portion of the'upper and innersole'by usual means. If the upper is lined, itis customary to sew theupper and. lining together to form a counter pocket in which'a counter or'heel stiffener. is placedbefore the .upper is attached to the inner-v sole.

Afterthe counter is inserted in the counter pocket, the upper'is passed to the operator of the heel molding machine to have the usual fiangeyfoimed upon the rear portion of the upperand counter. Heretofore, betweenthe counter inserting andmolding operations, the counterf has been-- likely to become'misplaced in the pocket or to drop out, requiring additional timeo'fthe molding machine operator to relocate or replace the stiffener :in the pocket before 7 the molding operation. ln case this read-,

justment of the counter was neglected at this stage in the operat ons, t was impos sible to correct it later and the style, com-i fort, and-wearing qualities of the shoe were impaired. V

-An objectof this nvention is to provide animproved method of making shoes'which Will'IlOt only prevent dlsplacementof the r q the tempered counter and upper are serelates to methods of -makingshoes and is herein disclosed with par ticular reference to the manufacture of shoes relatively to each other and all danger of Specificationof Letters Eatent. Pfglgn'hgd 35 19 1 2 Application filed July 19, 1918. Serial no. 245,658. I

counter at any stage subsequent to its in sertion but also will enable the heel molding operation to be dispensed with entirelv underfavorable conditions. Certain ad vantages of tliis-metliod are obtained also when it is applied to the treatment of'unpers which have "no lining and to which the counteror'stiffencr is sewed alon its. curved edge. v i D In accordance withmy improved method.

cured together by a line of fastenings located along the margin of theupper. he upper and counter are thus permanently located displacement'of the counter is avoided. The 1 line-of fastenings is preferablylocated at a distance fronithe edge of theupper' corresponding to the width of the'sole attaching flange a'nd'suhstantially along the line where, the iipperaiid stiffener will be bent in the formation thereon of: the sole'attach ing flange; When up er penetrating falstenings are used, the penetration of the upperf'and stiffener hythe fastenings, particularly whenthey are close-together,

weakens the upper along the flange. turning i line as'materially to" facilitate the'inolding 1 or flange turning'operation suchwhen ener to theshape of the last and to this end the upper is preferably allowed to dry and set n the shape given'toit by the last before the lastlisvremovdt pon the insertion of the .last,"the counterwill bend read p lyalongthe line where it has beenseciired to the upper and consequently Viveakened by the line; of perforations made by the line of securing means. for example,stitches or staples. The flange bending line is thus predetermined by the lineofperforations or penetrations. I F I a In thedrawings,

Figured is aside View, partly in section, of a shoe having a counterpocket with. a' heel stiffener orcounter inserted therein; Fig. 2 is a side view similar-to Fig. '1

" showing the shoe after the counter has been ihgs 'iear itsilower margin;

F 1g. 31s a fragmentary perspective VleW,

partly in section, of the rear portion of the I secured in the pocket by a line of fastenshoe in the condition shown in Fig. 2;

' Fig, 4 is a Viewsimilar to Fig. 3 showing i the margin of the upperand counter turned i outwardly along the line wherevthey are secured together; o V

' F 1g. 51s a View similar to Fig. 4 show ng i a the outturnedflangefoif the counter and up per attached to the sole; V ,1

Fig; 6 is a side iew, partly in section, of the shoe after the last is inserted; and

"Fig. 7 is a View, partly in section, ofa shoe made in accordance with this method in whichthe margin of the counter and upper I 1 materials is turned inwardly.

In the practiceof my method, an upper A having a llning B is preparedanda counter i pocket formed by sewing the upper and lin- I ing together along the line C. A counter or heel stiffener D, afterbeing properly tem- 'pered,;is inserted into: the pocket as indicated in F ig. 1. During. subsequentopera tions upon the upper and stiffener while in "this condition, the stiffener is very likely to become misplaced in the counter pocket or to fall outof the pockettaltogether and'time 3 of the operator. is consumed in replacing the stiffener or in examining the parts-to ascertainwhether or not they are properly located; i It is also diflicult tobendeitherinwardly or; outwardly the margin of the .1stiffenerandnpp'er to form thesole attach ing flange along a welledeflned line. cordingly, 1n accordance with my method, the stiffener is secured in place inthe, counter pocket by a number of fastenirgs at It (Figsifl and 3) located along the line where the materialsare to be bent and providing beyond the line of fastenings a width of 'mater1alsufl1c1ent tofform the sole attaching flange. In order to facilitate the bendingot the stiffener andnpper, itis'preterfable to provide a continuous line of upper penetrating faste'n'ings, the: penetrations or perforations oftheupper being 'sufliciently close togetherto weaken the material along the flange turningline. In Figs; 2 and 8, a line of stitches is shown at Eby which the the fact that the counter is in tem er, this turning may-be readily done'or at least initiated by hand, thouglnof course, an upper forming machine may be used if desired to form'the; flange. It is, however, necessary onlyito give the flange a slightoutward in-' clination since the next operation is effective time to dry out and whether the flange is turned inwardly as shown in Fig.7.

to complete the bending of the flange outwardly. This next operation consists in sewing or otherwise securing the flange to a sole or innersole; In" this operation, if a sewing machine is employed, the pressure. of the presser foot and the drawing up of the stitches will be effective to cause the flange to be bent at substantially right angles to the sides of theheel portion and to be drawn into'contact with the surface of the sole, as clearlyshown in Fig. 5. lit is to be understood that the remainder of the margin of the upper about the periphery of the shoe is also secured to the sole, for example, by turning it outward and sewing it to the sole preferablyas a part of the operation ofsecuring the outturned flange of the counter and upper tothe sole.-

The shoe is new readyfor the insertion of a last which isneXt inserted, the shoe being then in the condition shown in Fig. 6. The

insertion ofthe last shapes the upper includingthe heel, port on and assists in giv ing the rear portion a well defined angle at the line of fastenings or stitches E; Pref erably the last is allowed to remain in the shoe until the tempered counter has had setto the conformation of the last. a V i lVhilefor some purposes the shoe is. now completed, it is desirable in some classes of work to' secure another sole to the shoeby' sewing it to the outturned flange and-the [projecting-margin of the innersole and preferably also to apply at thesame time a weltto the topface of the flange; This,however,

is a common operation in shoe making and does not need to be illustrated herein.

In Figf? a shoe is shown in whichthe margin of the upper and counter is turnedinwardly; otherwise the method of making this shoe'is the same as'hasalready been described; The weakening of the materials by the line (if-perforations at E cgreatly facilitates the operation of turning the flange I outwardly or Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of'the United States is: p P

1. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in forming a shoe upper with a counter pocket, inserting ai tempered counter in the'pocket, securing the counter to the upper along a line spaced from its edge by the width of the sole attaching margin, formingthe margin as a flange for attachment of a sole, and then completing the shoe in-tl'l'e usual mannerl f 2. That improvement in methods of make ing shoes which consists in forming a shoe upper with. a counter pocket, inserting; a

counter in the pocket, securing the counter in the pocket bya line of fastenings located along the line where the upper and counter are to be bentto'for'm the soleatta'ching flange, securing said flange while the'u'pper is off the last to a sole, inserting allast to shape the heel end of the upper,*andthen finishing the shoe in the usual manner;

3;That improvement in methods of mak- I ing shoes which consists inpreparing an up- Y of the upper and counter 'to form afiangeper with a counter pocket, inserting a oouni ter'in'the' pocket, sewing the upper and counter along the line where the upper and counter are to be bent, bending the margin the angl'e of which is located at the sewing line, and finishing the manneri- 4. That improvement'in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing an upper 1 with a counter, pocket, inserting an un molded counter 1n the pocket, sewing the upper and counter along the hue where the upper and counter are to be bent, attaching a sole to the 'shoe,ins'erting a last to shape the heel end of the upper and cause a sharp angle tobe formed at the line of union of the upper and counter between the upwardly extending counter portion and the flange, and then finishing the shoe inthe usual manner. V

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing an upper with a counter pocket, inserting atempered unmolded counter in the pocket, sewing the upper and counter together along the line where the upper and counter are to be bent, molding the upper and counter with an outturned flange the angle of which is located at the sewing line, and finishing margin out the upper adjacentto the line of'stitching of the counter-to the upper, in serting a last to shape theheelend of the upper and'cause a sharp angle to be formed at the line of union of the upper and counter between theupwardlv extending counter portion and the outwardly directed flange, and then finishing'the shoe in the usualmanner.

7-. That improvement in methods of male 7 ing shoes which consists in preparing an upperwith counter pocket, insertinga tempe ed unmolded counter in the pocket, at

taching the upper counter together by work penetrating fastenings along the l ne wherethe upper and counter are to be bent,

' fmolding the upper and counterwith an outturned flange the angle ofwhichis located" at the securing line, and finish ng the shoe in the usual manner.

shoe in -the iusual manner.

"That improvement in methods of ma'king shoes,wl1i ch'consists in preparing a shoe I upper, insertingalsoftened counter in proper relation tothe upper, forming a line ofperforatijons in the upper and counter along the line-where the sole attaching flange is to be formed at right angles to the face or the upper, sewing the flange portion to a sole while the upperis off the last, and then inlast to shape the heel'portion of the line 'ofperforationsf v I '9. That improvement in methods of makingshoes whichconsists' in :preparing anup per, placing a; counter in proper relationto 1'7 51 and form" a well defined angle at the uppenstitching the counter and upper;

together along a line locatedatthefwidth of the flangeto be formed thereon from the edge of the counter, sewing the upper 'and counter to a solealong a line between said first line of stitches andthe edge ofthe' up per, inserting a last to bendtl'ie'upper at the.

to the flange, and then completing thelshoe in the usual manner. 7

10. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing an upper and a tempered "counter arranged in proper relation to each other, weakening the upper and counter along, a line adjacent to the margin ofthe upper and'counter where the upper and counter are to be bent to form the sole attachin flan 'e bendin said marh I; b

gin along the weakened line to form a flange for the attachment of a sole thereto, secu'n.

first line of stitches at a well defined angle f ing a sole to said flange nearer the edge of the margin of the'upper and counter than the weakened bending line, inserting'a last, I

and completing the shoe in the usual man- 11. That improvement in methods ofmaking shoes which consists in securing an unmolded counter to an upper by a line of fastenings extending along the margln ofthe upper and counter where the upper and 'counterare to be bent in lasting, the fasten- ,lngs belng sufiiciently close together to,

weaken the upper materials along this line,

sole, and completingthe shoe in the usual 12. That improvement in methodsof makingshoes. wh ch consists in securing an unmolded counter to anupperby a line of tas tenings extending along the margin of the upper and counter where the upper and" counter are to be bent in lasting, the fastenings being. sufficiently close together, to

weaken the upper materials, alongthis line, then breaking overfthe'margin of theu p per to form a flange, securing the flange to the sole while the upper is ofl the last, inserting aflast, and completingthe shoe in theusual manner. r

"then breaking over the margin of the upper to form a flange, securing the flange to the I V "13. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inpreparing anaup per, insertlng a tempered unmolded counter in proper-relationto the upper; attaching the upper and counter by work penetrating fastenin'gs along the line wherethe upper and counter-are to bent, attaching a sole to the margin of the upper adjacent to the line of attachment ofthe counter to the upper, inserting a last ftoshape the heel end of the upperand cause a right angle to be formed'at the line of attachment of the upa per and counter between the sides of the counter portion and the portion at right an? Yglesto it and forming the sole attaching molded counter to an upper'by a line of stitches extending'along the marginof the upper and counter where the upper and manner. 1 \y counter are to be bent in las'tinglthe stitches 1 being sufficiently close together to weaken the upper materials along this line, then breaking oyerthe margin of the upper to form a flange, sewingthe flange to the sole whilethe upper is oil" the last, inserting-a last, and completing the shoe in'the usual 7 15. That impr along its marginat a distance from its edge substantially equal to the width of the flange required for attachment ofthe sole, bending the upperkat said seam. and completing the shoe by attachment of the sole to the flange in the usual manner. a

In testimony whereofI have signed my name to thisspecification.

KARL ENGEL.

ovement in methods of mak ing shoes which consists in preparing a shoe o upper, sewing a seam in the upper while it is yet unattached to the other parts of the shoe 

